Day 12: Shaefers Pass to Camp Headquarters



  1. Upper Clark's Fork is a small trail camp with a usually dependable source of water in Bear Creek. The trail from here to Shaefers Pass was built by campers to fulfill the conservation requirement for their Arrowhead patch. While this camp is primitive, it gives you a head start on the long hike into Headquarters via the Tooth of Time.
  2. The climb up to Shaefers Pass from Clark's Fork is one of the more difficult on Philmont. If you plan to side hike the Tooth of Time, allow a full day. Also be sure to take plenty of water - dehydration can be a problem on this route. Note the steady grade that hugs the slope - the mark of a well constructed trail.
  3. Schafers Pass is an exquisite trail camp located near a fragile, expansive mountain meadow with campsites to the North and West. The spring here is an excellent indicator of current ground moisture conditions. In drought periods it dries up; in wet weather, it flows well.
  4. This is one of the most exhilarating hikes on Philmont - a grand finale for your expedition. Unfortunately, in their haste to get to Headquarters, may crews overlook the fascinating rock formations and points of interest. Take time to enjoy this hike. An early start is imperative to avoid afternoon thunderstorms. Dynamite was used by Waite Phillips in constructing this trail through the massive boulders. He paved the way for hundreds of thousands of Scouts and Explorers to traverse this awe inspiring ridge.
  5. Although the Tooth is clearly visible from Shaefers Peak, it's farther than it looks. Don't be discouraged when you don't find it right around the next bend in the trail. Carry plenty of water with you because there is none along the ridge and the blistering sun creates an intolerable thirst.
  6. A leader and a camper were struck and killed my lightning here in 1969. A plaque has been placed near the trail in remembrance of them. The Tooth Ridge is no place to be during a thunderstorm. Rocks along the sharp ridge show much evidence of strikes that touched down. If you see a storm approaching, get off the ridge as best you can on the leeward side. Then either continue down the ridge or wait until the storm passes before re-ascending to the top.
  7. No distinct path links the ridge trail with the Tooth. The easiest and safest ascent is from the northeast side, however. If you are burdened with packs, drop them near the trail and pick your way through the boulders to the top of the Tooth - a sheer monolith of dacite porphyry. At 9003 feet atop the Tooth, you have an unimpeded view in all directions. Beneath you to the south are the Stockade and Philmont Reservoirs. Camping Headquarters is at the end of the ridge and a bit to the right. A short distance off the trail on the ridge east of the Tooth, you can look through a natural "window" in a massive rock wall that frames the Tooth. The Tooth was a landmark on the Ante Fe Trail that ran along Philmont's eastern border, south from Cimarron. Portions of the trail are still visible where wagon wheels churned through mud.
  8. Protected by high rocky ridges, the Tooth Ridge Camp is nestled amongst a beautiful stand of Ponderosas. A bit farther along the trail, you pass between two massive rock outcrops. Natural cliff swelling on the left is rather high and not safe to attempt. The one on the right can be reached with a boost from a friend.